2022 Grüner Veltliner, Smaragd, Wachstum Bodenstein, Prager, Wachau, Austria
- Jancis Robinson MW
- 16/20
Earnest but very likeable, he has made a minute geological study of this extraordinary terroir. Southfacing and running down to the Danube, his Achleiten vineyard yields both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from the top Smaragd classification.
In short the wines are incredibly rich but also fresh and crisp. The Grüner Veltliner has a black pepper facet and a steely backbone to frame its feminine charms; the Riesling is farmed from 24 terraces, each one contributing a rich nuance. From the high ground comes the Wachstum Bodenstein Riesling, an undeniably complex beast, perfumed and exotic yet seriously dry and steely; an awakening enigma. With flavours running the gamut and scents of great sensibility, these wines are united by an incredible purity.