2023 Grüner Veltliner, Smaragd, Wachstum Bodenstein, Prager, Wachau, Austria

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd was planted in 1997 with a selection of old genetics collected across Lower Austria on varying rootstocks. Bodenstein calls this wine his scientific experiment. This is planted in the upper part of the Achleiten, on rocks with very thin topsoil where Grüner struggles, but this is shaded from mid-afternoon onwards.

This takes a while to open up, but there is a faint but very fine scent of citrus, almost with a touch of chervil. Again, the palate is rounder than the nose suggests, super-smooth, but with a lovely edge of zestiness, faint but utterly fresh, elongated, stony and graceful. There’s quite a bit of power on the finish - beautifully long Dry).

Drink 2028 - 2055

Medium green, yellow, and silver reflections. There are fragrances of fresh yellow currants, delicate hints of mango, nuances of meadow herbs, and fine blossom honey in the background. Juicy, fine apple fruit notes, delicate extract sweetness, integrated acidity, mineral on the finish, balanced, shows good length, secure development and certain ageing potential.