2022 Grüner Veltliner, Smaragd, Achleiten, Stockkultur, Prager, Wachau, Austria

Prager’s Stockkultur cuvée is always a pleasant surprise for lovers of Gruner Veltliner, as the aromas are less typically associated with the varietal – here you can immediately smell exotic fruits and overall seems more opulent than their other Grüner Veltliners.

While this is partly due to the terroir, this vineyard is also one of their most densely planted – even higher than most Burgundian vineyards, and the yields are strictly limited. The vines are grown at 370m altitude, overlooking the village and were first planted in the 1930s, and trained (as the name would suggest) on poles or ‘sticks’, hence the name ‘Stockkultur’ (meaning stick culture!).

The nose is so unique, with aromas of passion fruit and yellow pear, and still a hint of that classic Prager stoniness. The palate is almost creamy and full-bodied, despite not undergoing malolactic fermentation or spending any time in oak, with a velvety smooth texture that is still clearly defined. Flavours of juicy white peach, watermelon and lychee flavours dominate, framed by clean mineral sapidity. A grand but elegant Grüner Veltliner!

Katie Merry, Assistant Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Summer 2023)