1996 Champagne Louis Roederer, Cristal Vinothèque, Brut

This is a late disgorgement from 2009. Dosage: 8 g/l.

One of the many highlights of the afternoon, the 1996 Cristal Vinothèque magnum) exudes a level of richness and intensity that is simply breathtaking. That extra kick of richness the 1996 has developed in magnum and over an extended time on the lees is pure magic in balancing some of the natural austerity of the year. What comes through is a Champagne of unforgettable profoundness. Smoke, crushed rocks, white flowers, mint and finely sculpted citrus confit/orchard fruit add striking layers of dimensions. The 1996 is so bright and so alive in the glass. A whole range of Chardonnay inflexions punctuates the finish.

Drink 2019 - 2029

A different balance of the three stages of ageing. Just 400–500 bottles. This needed longer on lattes because of the high acid – 10 or 11 years sur lattes, just four years sur pointes and seven years before disgorgement. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon: ‘I want to keep sugar for ageing. We don’t want to go Extra Brut for Cristal. Maybe I would for immediate drinking, but I know this wine will need to travel and perhaps age.’ Skins were very thick and bitter – high phenols and maybe more terpenes than usual.

Deep straw. Very firm and grown-up and very Cristal. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon prefers the original disgorgement for 1995 but Vinothèque for 1996. It’s really exciting, beautiful, and firm. Lovely tight bead. So clean and fresh.

Drink 2018 - 2033

The 1996 Cristal Vinothèque spent ten years sur lattes and four years sur pointe for an explanation of those terms, readers are directed to the accompanying article) before disgorgement. Opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of dried fruits, honeycomb, fresh butter, lemon oil, spices and smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and integrated, its racy spine of vintage-typical acidity elegantly cloaked in crisp but fleshy fruit, with terrific concentration and a long, precise finish. Incisive and powerful, this is a 1996 Champagne that has turned out very well indeed.

Drink 2019 - 2040

A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this truly remarkable champagne offers pure, unalloyed pleasure now and for many years. It has a fabulous nose showing freshness and fruit with supple, savoury aromas of brioche and Cox’s apple. The acidity is vibrant, light and taut yet somehow also exhibits lovely roundness and a gorgeous satin-like texture. The palate spectrum is mind-boggling, with flavours ranging from cashew, cream, nougat and toast to white pear, citrus and crystallised fruits. It is supremely balanced and refined and finishes with a sumptuously long, savoury-umami finish.

Drink 2018 - 2035

The wine starts with attractive, reductive, toasty aromas, then freshens with air to offer fresh flowers, very fine lime peel, lemon pith, grapefruit, and yellow plums. The palate has an intense, fine and fresh feel with super long lemon and lime flavours and subtle, nutty moments that will build with time on the cork. Then, a late, spicy edge and super tart, mouthwatering grapefruit. Seemingly endless length and potential. Kept on the lees for its entire life. A must for every collector of great Champagne.