2020 Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Port, Portugal
- Richard Mayson
- 99/100
- James Suckling
- 99/100
Terroir and tradition
The Douro wine region lies 50 miles east of Oporto, centred on three subzones: Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo, and Douro Superior. The Cima Corgo, around Pinhão, is the heart of fine Port production. Its steep, terraced vineyards of granite and schist soils face soaring summer heat and an unforgiving landscape where mechanisation is nearly impossible—but the rewards are extraordinary.
British influence and Port’s fortified roots
Port owes much of its history to the British wine trade. In the 17th century, British merchants added brandy to local red wines to stabilise them for shipping. In 1678, two Englishmen staying with the Abbot of Lamego discovered his “sweetish and extremely smooth” wine, fortified during fermentation. They purchased his entire stock—and a legend was born. Shortly after, key Port houses emerged: Warre (1670), Croft (1678), Quarles Harris (1680), Taylor’s (1692). The Methuen Treaty of 1703 gave Portuguese wines tax advantages in Britain, and reforms by the Marquis of Pombal in 1756 formally demarcated the Douro region and outlawed poor practices—laying the foundation for today’s high standards.
Grapes varieties
Port can be made from over 80 authorised grape varieties, though a few key names dominate: Touriga Nacional – powerful, aromatic, Touriga Francesa (Francesca) – fruity and floral, Tinta Barroca – soft and round, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) – spicy and structured, Tinta Cão and Tinta Amarela – for finesse and colour. For white Port, top varieties include Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, and Viosinho. Historically, vines were planted as field blends across thousands of small plots—up to 30 varieties per vineyard. Although single-varietal plantings are increasing, the region still includes 28,000 growers over 39,000 hectares so that complete transition will take time.
How Port is made
Port is fortified during fermentation. Grapes are traditionally foot-trodden in large stone lagares, though this is now often done by automated treading machines. Fermentation is halted when sugar reaches a certain level (typically at 6–8% ABV) by adding a neutral 77% grape spirit (aguardente), resulting in a sweet, fortified wine around 19–20% ABV. Ageing then harmonises the fruit, alcohol, and tannin, producing the Port’s signature richness and texture.
Bottle-aged Ports: These wines are briefly aged in tank or cask and then mature slowly in bottle. They tend to be rich and fruit-forward. Vintage Port – Only declared in top years; made to age for decades. Single Quinta Vintage Port – From a single estate, made in non-declared years. Crusted Port – Unfiltered blend of vintages, ages well in bottle. Traditional LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) – Bottled later but unfiltered; can improve in bottle.
Cask-aged Ports: Aged in wood until ready to drink, these styles are softer, nuttier, and silkier. Tawny Port – Aged 6+ years; lighter, dried-fruit character. Aged Tawny (10, 20, 30, 40 Years) – Long barrel ageing for remarkable complexity. Colheita – Single-vintage Tawny aged for a minimum of 7 years in cask
Ruby & LBV Ports (filtered styles): These are aged 2–6 years in cask or tank and released ready to drink. They deliver upfront fruit and richness but don’t improve in bottle.
White Port: It can be made in dry or sweet styles, though even “dry” White Port is typically off-dry. Crisp, nutty, and versatile, it can be served chilled or in cocktails.