1963 Graham's, Port, Portugal

This was made from field blends at a time when there was no electricity in the Quintas.

Transparent garnet. Wonderfully delicate. It's subtle and so fresh. A jewel of a vintage port that is only just starting to fall apart.

Drink 1978 - 2028

The 1963 Graham’s Vintage Port is mature in colour, with wide bricking on the rim and a mahogany core. It has an elegant, almost understated bouquet for a 1963, presenting scents of eucalyptus, antique bureau, clove and Chinese five-spice, all beautifully defined. The palate is very well balanced, silky smooth in texture and spiced with white pepper, touches of curry leaf and cracked black pepper. At 55 years of age, it is not a voluminous, opulent Vintage Port, and it feels just a little faded. I suspect that maybe it peaked a few years back, but it will still give pleasure for several years. Just don’t expect fireworks.

Drink 2018 - 2030

Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-coloured and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post-World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous.

Tasted at dinner at Christies boardroom. What a stunning 1963 vintage port this is! The bouquet draws you in, does not drag you in with its alcohol and reveals a fresh, well-defined nose with a nutty edge, hints of cigar box and allspice. The palate is beautifully balanced, understated on the entry but building all the time, flashes of eucalyptus leading towards a more extrovert, clove-tinged finish that hangs around the palate like an obsessed ex-girlfriend. Gorgeous Grahams!

Drink 2009 - 2030

This is glorious. Superb depth and finesse with balance and density that are so fitting for the greatness of the legendary 1963 vintage. Full-bodied, very sweet yet focused and showing just a hint of tannins. Very long and sweet on the finish. I love the complexity and subtlety of caramel, butterscotch and hints of dried fruits. Fantastic. 

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