2004 Champagne Louis Roederer, Cristal, Brut

Intense nose of lemon curd. Considerable evolution already. Good acidity and a tight bead. This is a very good stage to drink this luxury.

Cristal plays 2004 with a quiet, serene sense of maturity today, still characteristically understated yet full on fine detail; preserved lemon, cashew, nut oil and toasted sourdough bread meet some more savoury, parmesan-like tertiary nuances in a palate that, similarly to the rosé of the same year, is approachable for Cristal while still driving narrow and long. It’s a fine moment to broach this delicate, understated vintage, although there is plenty more in the tank.

Drink 2024 - 2040

A cuvee of 53% Pinot Noir and 47% Chardonnay. Tasted at the Cristal vertical tasting.

What a stunning nose of brioche, toasted baguette and smoke this almost 20-year-old champagne has! Deep base of chalky character wrapped in Amalfi lemon and with savory and salty notes that build in intensity at the long, structured finish. Still many years ahead of it.

Drink or hold

The 2004 Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. This is Lot L033331E100008, disgorged January, 2010.

The 2004 Brut Cristal has put on quite a bit of weight since I first tasted it earlier this year. It is a powerful, structured Cristal layered with considerable fruit. Chardonnay seems to play the leading role in 2004, at least today. Cristal is often accessible young, but that is far from the case here. This is a serious, painfully young Cristal that will require considerable patience. Readers who are willing to spend some time with the wine today will find a super-impressive, complete Cristal.

Drink 2014 - 2034

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an incredibly delicious wine to enjoy now. As it turns out, I tasted the 2004 again the following day and found it even more vibrant than the bottles we served at this lunch. This remains one of my favorite vintages here. Two thousand and four was the highest-yielding vintage in Champagne at the time, yet the best wines have always been compelling.

Drink 2024 - 2044