2021 Penfolds, Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia
- Jancis Robinson MW
- 17.5/20
- Erin Larkin
- 95+/100
- Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
- 97/100
Grange occupies a unique place in Australian wine and on the global stage. Initially crafted with power and intensity, it quickly established a reputation for longevity and complexity. Each vintage carefully orchestrates fruit from multiple regions, allowing Penfolds to maintain consistency and a signature style. While early Granges leaned towards boldness, modern expressions balance structure and finesse, offering nuanced layers of dark fruit, spice, and subtle oak that reward patient cellaring.
Peter Gago is at the heart of Penfolds’ success, whose tenure has been defined by reverence for tradition and thoughtful innovation. Blending at Penfolds is a meticulous craft: parcels from diverse vineyards are evaluated for fruit purity, site expression, and vintage character. Gago’s skill lies in harmonising these elements to produce compelling wines that age gracefully. This approach extends beyond Grange, shaping the entire collection into wines unmistakably Penfolds yet expressive of their regional origins.
While the early Penfolds wines often showcased a New World exuberance, the contemporary style favours clarity and typicity. Winemaking techniques now emphasise subtlety—capturing the essence of each grape and vineyard without overwhelming oak or alcohol. The shift has produced wines with a more refined structure, vibrant fruit, and a sense of place, reflecting Australia’s diverse terroir. This evolution demonstrates Penfolds’ ongoing commitment to crafting technically accomplished and evocatively expressive wines.