2021 Penfolds, FWT 585, Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot/Merlot, Vin de France

78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot. 12 months French oak 32% new) and American oak 9% new) barriques. Penfolds/Dourthe used to call this joint venture, Bordeaux-bottled wine labelled FWT for ‘French winemaking trial’ Haut-Médoc. Peter Gago selects the lots to be blended in February in a process he describes as ‘relegation rather than selection’. It’s very much an example of Bordeaux wine subjected to the Penfolds winemaking techniques. Gago: ‘rack and returns still alien to the locals there’.

Very deep, concentrated blackish, purplish crimson. Very sophisticated nose, much riper than most Bordeaux 2021s. Tails off slightly less opulently than the nose, a tiny bit tart on the end.

Drink 2026 - 2036

The refined and quite classically styled Bordeaux blend of 2021 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot, and 8% Merlot offers up a vibrant blend of blackcurrant and inky tones lifted by leafy/cedary complexity. Mid-weight and approachable, the well-integrated tannins meld seamlessly with dark berry fruits and mocha oak before winding down into a balanced and fleshy finish.

Drink 2025 - 2033

Better than its predecessors, this third release of Penfolds working with Bordeaux fruit adds 14% Petit Verdot and 8% Merlot to Cabernet Sauvignon from a variety of Bordeaux vineyards. Its rich purple colour is matched by a whiff of pretty purple blooms and freshly picked sage and marjoram. Subdued flavours are very dry on entry, carrying an almost sooty edge, before a gorgeous silky mid-palate texture allows plum and wild strawberry notes to glide to a firm finish with grip in the tail. It has admirable restraint and poise, and will reward tasters after at least seven years of cellaring.

Drink 2024 - 2040