2020 Penfolds, Grange, Bin 95, Australia

Full bottle 1,531 g. 97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Peter Gago’s notes, reminding us of the effect of 2020 fires on crop levels: ‘No Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon released in 2020. No Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Redeemingly, Grange will convincingly justify the dexterity of South Australian Shiraz in this 2020 vintage. Two decades into the new millennium. Penfolds 180th anniversary year. Following stellar Grange vintages of 2002, 2004, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2016, 2018. No pressure. And, no Magill Estate Shiraz inclusion in this 2020 blend.’ 48% McLaren Vale, 40% Barossa Valley, 12% Clare Valley. 20 months in all-new American-oak hogsheads.

Blackish dense purple. Lightly muted nose promising something pretty exciting underneath. Very rich and heady. But lower key than many vintages. Blackcurrant and quite a bit of dry tannin on the end. Still very tight and cough-medicinal. Extremely youthful. Retasted after a couple of days in a stoppered decanter: heady nose recalls creosote and top notes of luscious mulberries. The palate has opened out to something almost fat, finishing with an appetisingly saline edge. Very persistent. After five days in a stoppered decanter: this was a supple pleasure to drink. Aeration recommended for at least the first two decades of this exceptional wine’s life.

Drink 2030 - 2060

The celebrated reputation of Grange places every new release under intense scrutiny, and this passes muster as sturdy and convincing, but without the stellar fireworks of 2019 or the instantaneous drink-now temptation of many from the past decade. Coming from the low-yielding 2020 vintage, a broad net was cast across McLaren Vale, Barossa and Clare to find the right mix of fruit parcels showing both concentration and complexity.

With the modest addition of 3% Cabernet Sauvignon noting that Penfolds did not release its elite Bin 707 and Bin 129 Cabernets from the 2020 vintage), this pulls tight focus on Shiraz’s primary allure – blackberry and black plum rinsed in rich mocha and dark chocolate, piqued by a dusting of cinnamon, pepper and vanilla. This is made to be cellared, and will tell a more exuberant story in another decade.

Drink 2024 - 2055

This dense and brooding 2020 Shiraz Grange has all the elements for a long life with impressive levels of extract and tannins, but lacking the delicacy of a great vintage. It opens up with waves of tarry, licorice and cola aromas against a backdrop of firm, unyielding oak. Muscular, chalky tannins provide a strong frame to waves of blackberry flavor which build toward a drying finish. A couple more years in the cellar will bring all the pieces together before a two-decade drinking window.

Drink 2030 - 2050

The 2020 Grange comprises 97% Shiraz and the balance Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale 48%), Barossa Valley 40%) and Clare Valley 12%), and it matured for 20 months in American oak hogsheads, 100% new. While the metric of regions changes each season and the proportion of Shiraz changes slightly, the élevage and style remain the same. Aromatically, the wine is black and savory, with crushed ant, black peppercorn, blueberry, blackberry and licorice/aniseed.

In the mouth, the wine feels lighter than some other vintages on release. There is something like clarity and perhaps a little hole in the mid-palate—it sits like clarity or less density and also features as breathing space. A nice wine, it is lighter than the preceding 2019. Both vintages had their challenges, but this 2020 season has yielded an "easier" feeling wine.

Drink 2024 - 2050

97% Shiraz; 3% Cabernet Sauvignon

Blackberry, blueberry, graphite and terra cotta aromas. Medium-bodied with clarity, focus and very fine tannins that are polished and caressing. One of the most refined and textural Granges I have had in a long time. The tannins are very resolved. This is mostly Barossa and McLaren Vale with some Claire Valley.

Very drinkable now, but will age beautifully.

The 2019 Grange was released through the Place in March, and it is followed up just six months later by the 2020, reminding us all once again that this is just a great addition to the international wines coming out through the Bordeaux system. Seductive, smoky, pure distilled blackcurrant and crushed blueberries, dill, black tea, raspberry leaf, violet. Just a gorgeous wine, with presence and character, hard to argue with. 100% new American oak for ageing.

Drink 2028 - 2040