2022 Tabuérniga, Telmo Rodríguez, Rioja, Spain

Las Beatas may be more famous - and expensive - but Tabuérniga isn't far behind it in terms of quality. Sourced from a 2.7-hectare parcel of the same name in Labastida, located on terraces between 540 and 630 metres, this is a blend of Tempranillo and 35% Garnacha, Graciano and white grapes with impressive perfume, detail and complexity, rose petal and wild thyme top notes and a palate of bramble, red cherry and wild strawberry.

One of the Labastida wines from a tiny, terraced 2.7-hectare field blend with quite a lot of Graciano, the 2022 Tabuerniga is feral and herbal, with upfront grip that melts on the midpalate, the tannins well-tamed. It has an inherent wildness that’s compelling and hard to shake, but undeniable finesse and elegance as well, finishing harmoniously at peace with its complex characteristics of sanguine garrigue, smoked meat, and dark chocolate berry deliciousness. Full-bodied, it will shed its baby fat over the next 20-25 years.