2019 Bodegas Alión, Ribera del Duero, Spain

More modern than Vega Sicilia. The first two vintages, 1991 and 1992, were made at Vega Sicilia until the Alión winery was finished. Initially, the wine contained the produce of young vines of the Vega Sicilia estate, which now go into Valbuena. Some vines from all over the Ribera region are also responsible for this, so there is a lot of variation between ingredients. Wine maker Gonzalo Iturriaga: ‘When Pablo asked me how to improve Alión in 2016, I said we had to do what we did at Vega Sicilia in 2010. So we went from 15 to 52 different vats, which gave us much more precision.

I love the verticality of the wine, but it was sometimes too tannic. With this new facility, we aim for tailor-made extraction. Since 2016, we have used a bit of concrete, and since 2020, we have worked with some foudres. 2019 was a very big-boned vintage that demanded low-key remontage. I’m less proud of this 2019 than some other vintages. In 2020, the rain helped, and we picked quite late.’

Purple depths. More sophisticated, complex nose than Pintia 2018 just tasted. But sweet, black-fruited palate and some dryness on the end. Not the most refreshing or succulent.

Drink 2024 - 2032

Alión is a pan-Ribera blend, using grapes spread over 70 hectares, principally in the Burgos villages of La Aguilera, Moradillo de Roa and Roa. Aged in a combination of concrete and 70% new French and 5% American oak, this was picked early to counter the heat of the vintage. It's bright, focused and acid-driven, with scented wood and blueberry and black cherry fruit. Will age gracefully for a decade or more.

Drink 2024 - 2035

Ripe, tarry plums, black cherries with violets, rocks, coffee, and graphite. Refined notes of balsamic fruit and cocoa powder, too. Full-bodied and juicy with an iron fist of tannins, yet at the same time so velvety and polished. It has a long, focused finish with lots of finesse and layers.

Drinkable now, but better after 2025.