Champagne Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siècle No. 22, Brut

The NV Grande Cuvée Grand Siècle No. 22 (magnum) is powerful, deep and quite resonant. This is an especially rich Grand Siècle, a Champagne endowed with tremendous textural presence from start to finish. Apricots, candied ginger, spice cake, chamomile and candied orange peel are all amplified. The No. 22 is very much a Champagne for the dinner table. I imagine it will pair spectacularly with just about anything. This is a very fine Grand Siècle. Disgorged: October 25, 2023.

This slightly older blend, tasted at the winery, is highly worth seeking out. Components include the marvellous 2004 vintage (55%) blended with 2002 (25%) and 1999 (20%). The wine is 55% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Oger, and Le Mesnil, and 45% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy, Mailly and Tours-sur-Marne. At this stage, the wine shows notes of ripe apricot, hazelnut, brioche, and smoke on the nose, and a silky, fine texture that retains admirable acidity and youth and hints at the potential for ageing.

Only in magnum. Fantastic structure and richness with pressed apple and light brioche, following through to a solid and rich palate. Very vinous and state of the art. This is a late release of an older GS in only magnums. It was first released in 2012. It has at least eight years bottle age.

A blend of the 2004, 2002 and 1999 vintages, the NV Brut Grand Siècle #22 (which I tasted from magnum) continues to perform very well, mingling notes of peach and ripe citrus fruit with nuances of brioche, beeswax, iodine and fresh sourdough. Full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, it's deep and concentrated, with a creamy mousse, lively acids and a long, sapid finish. With the #22, this series of Grand Siècle iterations takes another step up in maturity.