Champagne Agrapart & Fils, Les 7 Crus, Blanc de Blancs, Brut

90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir. Base 2020. Dosage 6 g/l. Disgorged May 2023.

Quince has quartz-like acidity, broad across the mid-palate and then sweeping into a precise finish. Tangerine, caramel, and nutmeg are present in every layer, making each one different. It is very satisfying and has a great balance of sweetness and crispness. 

Drink 2024 - 2028

Dosage is 6 grams per litre.

The NV Brut 7 Crus is a very pretty, entry-level wine in this range. Bright, mineral and intensely vibrant, the 7 Crus is all energy. All the elements are so well proportioned. A blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this captures all the house signatures with tons of energy and better overall balance than in some previous editions. White flowers, chalk and citrus linger.

Drink 2023 - 2031

Vibrant fruit here, with peaches, apricots, lemons, pears, almonds, and spicy anise notes. It's fresh and crisp with very fine bubbles. Textured with wonderful purity of fruit. 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from 7 villages.

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Agrapart's NV Brut 7 Crus wafts from the glass with scents of crisp green apple, freshly baked bread, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's an ample, incisive wine with racy acids and a saline finish. When the range begins like this, you know you're in the presence of one of Champagne's greatest producers.

Every time I taste a mature bottle of Agrapart, I wonder if I've ever given this exceptional producer his due in these pages. Now aided by his son Ambroise, Pascal is one of the great artisanal winemakers of Champagne, with beautifully situated and thoughtfully farmed parcels, careful winemaking and a terrific track record for producing wines of structure, concentration and complexity. This new set of releases is especially brilliant, but that will come as no surprise to readers following Agrapart over the decades, as perpetual improvement is part of this estate's DNA.

Drink 2022 - 2033