2019 Amarone della Valpolicella, Marion, Marcellise, Veneto, Italy
- Michael Garner
- 92/100
From Roman roots to modern prestige
While its sweeter sibling Recioto della Valpolicella dates back to Roman times—with mentions by Pliny, Virgil, and Columella—Amarone itself is a relatively recent creation. It was first sold in 1936, reportedly the result of a forgotten Recioto that had fermented dry. Official DOC recognition followed in 1953, and today Amarone accounts for roughly 25% of all Valpolicella production.
Location and climate
The Amarone zone lies in Veneto, between Lake Garda and Venice, centred around the villages of Negrar, Fumane, Marano, Sant’Ambrogio, and San Pietro in Cariano. Vines grow on volcanic, stony, and calcareous soils in the foothills of the Lessini Mountains, between 150 and 350m above sea level. The climate is temperate, moderated by Lake Garda and the Adriatic, though the nearby Alps pose an occasional hail risk—as in the challenging 2007 vintage.
Grapes and the appassimento method
By law, Amarone must consist of at least 80% Corvina (or Corvinone), with Rondinella, Molinara, and Croatina making up the remaining 20%. After harvest, only clean, healthy fruit is selected and laid out to dry in well-ventilated lofts for 100–120 days, a process known as appassimento. This drying concentrates sugar, acid, and flavour:
Sugar increases by ~27%
Dry extract by ~28%
Must weight reduced by ~65%
Botrytis (noble rot) may develop, contributing further complexity
Come March, the desiccated grapes are pressed and fermented—often in Slavonian or French oak—and then aged for several years. Some of the top producers (like Giuseppe Quintarelli) ageing wines up to seven years.
Style and profile
Recioto remains sweet, with fermentation halted early. Ripasso is a Valpolicella wine that is passed over Amarone pomace, gaining richness and structure. Amarone is dry but powerful, with legal alcohol starting at 14% ABV (many exceed 15%). The best wines are dense and layered, with Morello cherry, coffee, chocolate, and spice flavours. They are structured but with supple tannins and lively acidity. They are often compared to Vintage Port, though unfortified.