2023 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, St Julien, Bordeaux

85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. Cask sample.

Deep purple-black colour. Better on the palate at the moment, the nose a little wayward. Lovely textural feel on attack, the tannins plentiful but velvety and smooth. Quite ample but also long and driven. Good freshness as well. Ageing potential.

Drink 2035 - 2050

The 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 100% new oak for a planned 18 months, has a less forceful bouquet than the 2022 last year and, consequently, shows more refinement and poise. The scents don't come barging out of the blocks, but they creep up on you. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry. Showing moderate depth, it’s quite linear in style and grippy. A faint touch of bell pepper emerges on the classically styled finish that reminds me of some of the old vintages of Ducru-Beaucaillou. This is the strictest vintage I have encountered in some time.

Drink 2030 - 2065

The blend is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot, with pH 3.70 and TPI 89.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou opens with classic great Cabernet notes of blackcurrants, mulberries, and ripe plums leading to a perfume of lilacs, lavender, and pencil shavings with a touch of cardamom. The light to medium-bodied palate is very tightly wound and so, so elegant, with a firm backbone of grainy tannins and wonderful tension giving definition to the black and red berry layers, finishing long and fragrant. This is more structured than most Médoc wines this year and very impressive.

Drink 2029 - 2050

The 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a heady, sumptuous Saint-Julien. The aromatics alone are captivating. Truffle, rose petal, blood orange, pomegranate, spice and menthol build in a creamy, lavish Ducru. The 2023 is a classic Bruno Borie wine that emphasizes textural opulence. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous floral and spice-driven top notes. The balance of opulence and vibrancy is compelling.

Drink 2033 - 2063

The 2023 is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, again in new barrels, and it hit 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.7, and an IPT of 89. It will have 50+ years of longevity.

As to the Grand Vin, the 2023 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou brings everything up a level, offering a gorgeous perfume of crème de cassis, spring flowers, graphite, and crushed stone. This gives way to a medium to full-bodied, pure, incredibly elegant Ducru that has ample mid-palate depth, building tannins, and a great spine of acidity. It’s another gorgeous wine from this chateau that plays in the style of the 2010, 2016, and 2020.

83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot.

This has aromas of blackberries and blackcurrant, as well as graphite and flint. Some gunpowder. It’s full-bodied with extremely refined tannins, a creamy character and al-dente fruit at the finish. Crunchy, succulent and linear. Mineral edge to it, like licking a stone. Energetic.

Glass-staining violet. A serious Ducru, delivered with precision and balance, with plenty of concentration and a slow, long build, layered, fine and sappy tannins. Proof again that this is a great Cabernet year in this corner of Bordeaux, less velvet concentration than the 2022 Ducru perhaps, but more finesse and packed full of nuance, and a saline mouthwatering finish. 41hl/h yield, 100% new oak, with long seasoning of up to five years, nine different coopers.

Drink 2030 - 2050

7pH. 89 IPT. Ageing 18 months, 100% new oak. 12% press.

Lovely vibrant purple colour in the glass. Smells fragrant and lifted, a combination of sweet and ripe and fresh blackcurrant and black cherries on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate. Smooth and so silky, but rich too, there’s depth and weight but not too much. I love the texture - grippy and filling no doubt, it coats the mouth with a crushed velvet texture, you feel the ripeness but there’s such lift and effortless purity of fruit that it feels fresh too. No extra fat, but equally it’s not too lean, not strict at all, where many are. Not hollow, not light, there’s no let up. Juicy cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry with lots of liquorice on the finish. Feels well crafted. Maybe not as immediately moreish as some, but this is really well made. Feels elegant and stylish.

Drink 2034 - 2049