2023 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, Bordeaux

77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carmenère. Cask sample.

Good depth of fruit marked by the Cabernet. Cassis and mint aromas. Fine, linear and long, the tannins are polished and integrated. Really quite refined.

Drink 2030 - 2045

The 2023 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 4 to October 2 at 45.7hL/ha with the highest IPT Indice de Polyphénols Totaux, a measurement of tannin) ever with respect to the Merlot, which underwent some saignée in tank. 

Matured entirely in new oak, it has wonderful delineation on the nose, quite floral with pressed violets infusing the lifted black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky-smooth entry and a silver bead of acidity. Pure black fruit infused with graphite lends this Pauillac-like attributes, sustained on the finish, as usual. This is a very classical Brane-Cantenac— a worthy follow-up to the 2022. 

Drink 2029 - 2050

The 2023 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot which saw some saignée), 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carmenère and 1% Petit Verdot, and it completed its malolactic fermentation in barrels as has been the rule at this estate since the 1990s. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, cassis and spices framed by creamy new oak, it’s medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a creamy core of fruit and a long, gently lactic finish.

Having grafted over Merlot vines to Cabernet Sauvignon, Henri Lurton and his team are now able to craft a balanced blend derived solely from the plateau of Brane, the estate’s finest terroir, and that has brought more mid-palate depth and volume to the wines. The 2023 vintage delivered an abundant fruit set, so the team conducted extensive crop-thinning to balance the vines. The resulting wines are quite serious, with analytically high levels of tannin, though the estate’s use of 100% new oak, with malolactic in barrique, for the grand vin has contributed some youthful creaminess out of the gates, even if I sometimes think that comes at the expense of a little precision.

Tasted two times

The 2023 Brane-Cantenac is a sensual, silky wine. There’s plenty of depth and structure behind that, but the first impression is most definitely one of elegance. Crushed flowers, spice and dried herbs meld into a core of super-expressive, dark, red-toned fruit. The 100% new oak is impeccably balanced within the wine’s frame. Brane-Cantenac remains one of the best relative values in Bordeaux, or anywhere, for that matter. This is a fine effort from proprietor Henri Lurton and his team.

Drink 2033 - 2063

This shows very pretty fruit and ultra-fine tannins that have an almost al-dente sense to them. It has a medium to full body, fine tannins and a fresh, vivid finish. The tannin quality is exceptional.

Tasted twice

Readers looking for one of the hidden gems in the vintage should jump on the 2023 Château Brane-Cantenac, an incredibly impressive Margaux that does everything right. Cassis, graphite, violets, lead pencil, and leafy tobacco notes all emerge on the nose, and it's medium to full-bodied on the palate, with classy, integrated oak, flawless balance, and fine tannins. I love its overall purity, as well as its balance, and it should need just 4-5 years of bottle age to show its potential.

Harvest September 14 to October 2. 3.59ph.

A great aromatic hit on the opening beats, giving way to silky tannins, spiced plum, rhubarb and slate, cassis and bilberry fruit, all showing depth and intensity. Such an accomplished wine, once again showing how it's done. 100% new oak for malolactic and ageing, 8 coopers, 28 different toasts. 45.7hl/h yields, which is generous for this vintage in the Margaux appellation.

Drink 2032 - 2050

Ageing 18 months, 100 new oak. 13.7% press wine. 40% grand vin production.

Very aromatic, gorgeous florality on the nose, so inviting and welcoming. Really open and generous - roses, violets, peonies, red cherries and strawberries. Supple and juicy, instantly quite pretty and fun, a lively bright aspect to the red fruits - cranberry, crisp green apple, raspberry and strawberry then the fine tannins come into play and give the structure and the focus to the finish. It’s a little less plush than Brane is normally - usually more gentle, fleshy and smooth - this is a little two-toned with influence from the new oak in the tightness but there’s great potential here. Feels a bit more like a St-Julien expression - calm, relaxed, smooth, intentional, juicy and lifted. Less charming right now, more tense and precise.

Drink 2032 - 2048