2023 Chablis, Vaillons, 1er Cru, Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Burgundy

From 5 different lieux-dits that saw 15% of new and one-year-old wood.

A discreet application of wood sets off notes of white pepper, acacia blossom, spice, and just enough Chablis typicity to be interesting. On the palate, there is both good volume and refinement to the generously proportioned middle-weight flavours that possess a sappy texture while displaying solid length on the youthfully austere finale that displays acceptable vibrancy.

Drink 2027+

The 2023 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a pretty nose. It is more floral, with dandelion scents infusing the lemon and orange pith aromas–quintessential Vaillons, really. The palate is slightly lower in acidity than the 2022, but it has fine depth and a slightly powdery texture on the finish.

Benoît Droin is another vigneron who took time out from spraying his vines to greet me at his winery in Chablis. As usual, he went up and down his metal ladder, fetching various cuvées directly from stainless steel vats. “The 2023 is not as classic as 2022,” he tells me, “essentially because of the warm temperatures before and during harvest. Otherwise, it might have been similar.

We gained some concentration and richness. We didn’t have rain one month before harvest. Many bunches reminded me of 2000. It is an accessible vintage. I picked from September 7, and I was happy to have started early as the maturity came very quickly, often beginning the picking at 4 am each day.”

Drink 2024 - 2030

25% wood

The first grapes to be picked. Good bright colour with a light green tint. Confit de citron, some white fruited flesh, no great acidity, but nuanced and pleasing. Softer finish than a classic Vaillons but very classy.

Drink 2026 - 2031