2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Pure Clairette, Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils, Rhône

Fermented in stainless steel and aged in concrete, Usseglio's 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc now includes five grape varieties: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and smaller amounts of Bourboulenc and Picardan. Subtle pear and nectarine aromas greet the nose, while the palate is medium to full-bodied, round and rich, loaded with fruit, then finishes long and zesty, with a hint of bitterness.

In 2021, Usseglio said, "We were lucky to not get frosted—only five out of 25 hectares were affected." Of course, he and his pickers had to dodge the same raindrops as everyone else during harvest, but his 2021s have turned out really well. In 2022, he said, "We had a good winter, then it was very dry, with small berries. With the coolish nights, the vines didn't stop—we already had finesse at the end of August. The ferments went fast, malolactic was quick [and] the wines are accessible early, like 2007."

If the wines really turn out like 2007, the 2022 vintage could be one for the ages—and not just at this domaine.

Drink 2023 - 2030

The colour of this is deep straw with a striking pink tinge. A powerful and ripe dry white with a rich, almost oily texture, but also a lot of pink grapefruit freshness. The little hint of bitterness at the finish really accentuates the minerality. Made from 50% of the white version of clairette and 50% of clairette rose grown on sandy soil with a northern exposure. Matured in a mix of demi-muids and larger Stockinger barrels. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification.

Drink or hold

The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Pure Clairette is an equal blend of Clairette and the rare Clairette Rose. Swirling the glass unveils precise aromas of orange blossom, white peach, apricot, mango, melon, fresh ginger, discreet vanilla and a splash of verbena tea. Full-bodied, concentrated and layered, the finish is persistent. It will provide sheer drinking pleasure over the next couple of years.

Drink 2023 - 2030

Equal parts Clairette and Clairette Rose, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Pure Clairette showed beautifully, with a layered, medium to full-bodied, pure profile as well as classy orchard fruits pear, golden apple), vanilla cream, spice, and hints of toasted green almonds. It's pure, focused, and nicely concentrated, with integrated acidity. This cuvée is brought up in a mix of foudre 60%) and demi-muids 40%).