2022 Champagne Clandestin, Boreal, Brut Nature

The Boreal and Austral range shows the importance of vineyard aspect on Champagne style. Boreal comes from grapes sourced only from north-facing, mid-slope, Kimmeridgian soil vineyards. The wine is 100% Pinot Noir. On the nose, there’s an oyster-shell salinity, combined with elegant notes of violet, red fruit and black fruit, and prominent cassis. The palate shows ripe confit lime, with a lovely orange bitterness. There’s good tension and linearity here, coupled with a very saline finish. You can drink this effortlessly: it has the freshness and salinity of the Côte des Blancs, alongside power from the Pinot Noir grapes.

Berry Bros. & Rudd