2022 Colore, Bibi Graetz, Tuscany, Italy

Perfection in sangiovese, with cherry blossoms, chalk, seashells, fine sand and violets on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with focused and poised tannins that are wonderfully integrated and rather endless. Crunchy and chewy at the end. Such presence. You want to spend time with this wine. A top selection from two vineyards Olmo and one in the village of Chianti Classico in Lamole, 60 and 88 years old, respectively. This is a wine that gives great pleasure now, but will be even better in two or three years.

The Bibi Graetz 2022 Colore sources its fruit from only two sites in this vintage: from 60-year-old vines in the Olmo vineyard with 400-meter-plus elevations) and 88-year-old vines in Lamole Chianti Classico). The vines are mostly south-facing, but the elevations are key. Meanwhile, Testamatta comes from mostly cool, north-facing sites. These results show lots of vertical heft and sharp tones with bright fruit, mineral graphite and blue flower. Bibi seeks transparency in his wines, and although the 2022 vintage delivers heavier fruit aromas overall, the wine does offer a pretty textural lightness.

Bibi Graetz is reducing his production numbers, going from 500,000 bottles produced in 2013 to less than half that number in recent years. His top-shelf Colore has been reduced from 50,000 bottles in 2020 to only 15,000 bottles now, with fruit sourced from two vineyard sites. He is committed to adopting what he calls "a more selective approach." As someone who has studied his portfolio for many years, I still have concerns over the ever-changing wines and the introduction of new products and the removal of others), which could cause confusion among consumers. As Bibi's new vineyard sites in Fiesole become mature, the portfolio will also consolidate.

Drink 2024 - 2040

Jewel-like ruby in colour, translucent although perhaps a little deeper than some vintages. One to sink into, captures a juiciness and delicacy even in the heat of 2022. Medium intensity, raspberry and ripe red fruits, well judged, intense with a kick of orange peel, rosemary, tobacco, white tea, pomegranate, cherry pit, cut herbs, underbrush, savoury yet with a finish of sweet red liqourice, love it. Great balance, and we are fully in vivid Tuscan pleasure here from owner and winemaker Bibi Graetz.

Drink 2026 - 2042