2022 Barbaresco, Bernadot, Ceretto, Piedmont, Italy

Showing a dark ruby shine, the Ceretto 2022 Barbaresco Bernadot delivers vertical aromas and a beautiful sense of vertical lift. Ceretto always nails it on the head, even in a vintage like 2022 in the middle of a drought and a three-year heat wave. This 4.8-hectare site sees biodynamic farming with excellent results. All the elements are finely tuned and polished. The wine almost twinkles. The tannins feel like silk, and although this vintage is more accessible, you will not regret paying that price for this bottle. It sees 12 months in French oak botte, followed by 12 months in old 300-liter French barrel with 12 more months in bottle.

Straight and tangy, this is shiny and slick with a sleek frame and a drive of red berry fruit from start to finish. Super high acidity, the fruit is almost tart and sour, and then quite massy tannins come in and close down some of the enjoyment, making this quite a serious wine. The two aren't quite in harmony yet - the fresh acidities need to balance a bit more with the powerful tannins. Ends chalky and a little abruptly leaving some toasted spice, cedar and aniseed aspects.