2022 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Vincent Dauvissat, Burgundy

There is ample citrus influence suffusing the nose that could be from nowhere else but Chablis, with its array of seashore, algae, and oyster shell scents. The caressing but notably denser and more powerful, larger-bodied flavours coat the palate while retaining an attractive texture on the strikingly persistent finish shaped by bright acidity. This can't match the MdT for refinement, but it is presently more complex and should age just as well.

Drink from 2032 onward

The 2022 Chablis Fôrets 1er Cru was promising from barrel last year. Now, in bottle, it has held on to that complex, mineral-led bouquet, with hints of chamomile in the background. The palate is very well balanced with a silver thread of acidity, like the Montée de Tonnerre. It is quite understated towards the finish, suggesting that this will benefit from a few years in bottle. Plenty of energy, but patience is required.

Drink 2030 - 2050

A brilliant wine in the making, Dauvissat's 2022 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest unfurls in the glass with youthfully reductive scents of citrus oil, crisp stone fruit, white flowers, oyster shell and subtle hints of orange blossom. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with superb depth at the core and an electric finish, this cuvée has easily navigated the vintage's extremes.

Drink 2027 - 2055