2022 Mayacamas, Chardonnay, Mt Veeder, Napa Valley, California, USA

A bouquet of dried white wildflowers, hints of cardamom and salty sea spray and a bright whiff of lemon zest. Bright and beguiling, with savoury saline notes jumping off the palate. Briny oyster shell, fresh tarragon and thyme are given over to candied lemon peel, finishing with savoury, lemongrass intensity. Beautiful and classic. Supple, elegant and fresh from the top of Mt Veeder, this is a California Chardonnay that never goes through malolactic fermentation and does not usually see battonage – all to craft intense, mountain-grown Napa Chardonnay of verve and brilliance. The five Chardonnay blocks are found at elevations between 550 to 640 meters. The wine is 85% whole cluster in only 10% new French oak. It's a brilliant wine and has been for decades.

I was able to taste two vintages of Mayacamas's Chardonnay. Looking at the 2022 Chardonnay first, its pale gold hue is followed by a beautiful nose of honeyed citrus, persimmon, orange blossom, and spice, with some honeyed minerality and dried herb notes emerging with time in the glass. It's medium-bodied, has a solid spine of acidity, and outstanding length. It's enjoyable today and will evolve gracefully over the coming 10-12 years.

After a little swirling of the 2022 Chardonnay, exuberant notes of juicy pears, Golden Delicious apples, and white peaches jump from the glass, followed by hints of allspice, honeysuckle, and candle wax. The light to medium-bodied palate is crisp and refreshing with a delicate silkiness to the texture and bright, pure, orchard-fruit flavors, finishing long and steely.