2022 Chablis, Les Fourneaux, 1er Cru, Samuel Billaud, Burgundy

Tank sample, unoaked.

It is more mineral than the straight Chablis and has a more marked creamy lees aroma and a ‘green’/herbal citrus lift. It is not a huge step up from the Chablis, perhaps, at least not compared with the difference in price, but there’s more stony/mineral character here, and it’s a little more persistent, with a touch of spice on the finish, and needs at least another year in bottle to be more expressive. So perfectly dry. 

Drink 2024 - 2032

From Côte de Près Girots and Morein.

A discreet but not invisible application of wood sets off aromas of slightly riper white and yellow peach with a more subtle Chablis influence, in particular iodine. There is excellent volume to the sappy and beguilingly textured medium-weight flavours that possess more power if there is less refinement on the citrus rind and quinine-inflected finish that is firm enough to repay mid-term keeping.

Drink from 2029 onward

The 2022 Chablis Les Fourneaux 1er Cru is matured in stainless steel only. This is one of Billaud's most unapologetically austere wines on the nose, a touch of wet limestone and flint, quite Zen-like. The poised and penetrating palate is citric with a superb line of acidity and a steely and persistent finish. This is another "live wire".

Drink 2024 - 2040

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Fourneaux is showing particularly well, opening in the glass with notes of crisp stone fruits, white flowers, oyster shells and iodine, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated palate with excellent depth at the core, racy acids and a saline finish.

Drink 2025 - 2040