2022 Chablis, Montmains, 1er Cru, Domaine William Fèvre, Burgundy

Clear lemon and lime colour. Just a very light coquillage reduction. Then the wine builds a beautiful level of intensity on the palate, a lime thread, very salivating for its dry finish. An impeccable balance, this is faultless. And so persistent! Nothing heavy, nothing over sunny.

The cool and almost reticent nose makes clear that it could be from nowhere but Chablis with its array of prominent mineral reduction, shellfish and iodine-scented pear and floral aromas. The more refined if perhaps slightly less generous middleweight flavors possess both good volume and vibrancy on the lightly stony, persistent and balanced finish. This lovely effort should be more than capable of delivering 7 to 10 years of cellaring potential. Drink 2029+

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains reveals aromas of green apple, pear, honey and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that's taut, youthfully blocky and mineral. It shows good cellaring potential.

Tank sample. Less open than the Chablis, less obviously fruity. Stone dust and citrus. Riper as it opens. Creamy texture, sweet-sour freshness not quite meshed. Moderate intensity and good length.