2022 St Aubin Rouge, Derrière Chez Edouard, 1er Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Hubert Lamy, Burgundy

The 2022 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard 1er Cru Rouge) comes from 50 to 60-year-old vines that produce smaller berries. This has an exquisite bouquet with wild strawberry, crushed stone and wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The stems impart noticeable pepperiness that defines the finish at the moment. Give this time in bottle.

Olivier Lamy and I tasted in his new tasting room, which is far more comfortable than a day in the cellar. Before we broached in 2022s, not 2023s, since he sells the vintage that is in bottle, we went out onto the balcony where he gave me a potted guide to the climats that surround the village of Saint-Aubin and their respective soil types. “In 2022, it was drier in Saint-Aubin,” he tells me, “but we enjoy good water retention due to clayey soils.

I found that the season produced smaller grapes. I started to pick on August 25 and for the reds, I used around two-thirds whole cluster. The wines were bottled in July and August.” It goes without saying that Lamy has become the most reputed winemaker in Saint-Aubin, his Haut-Densité and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet selling for a princely sum due to an active secondary market. However, there is plenty to savour amongst his Village and Premier Crus that are more friendly on the wallet.

Drink 2027 - 2040