2022 L'Ermita, Álvaro Palacios, Priorat, Spain

Tank sample. 92% Garnacha, 7% Cariñena, 1% white varieties Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Pedro Ximenez). From a vineyard of 4.7 ha in Gratallops village. Yield only 8.3 hl/ha! 4,930 bottles produced.

One might expect a blockbuster from Spain at this price, but L’Ermita exudes lift, fragrance, purity, and lightness of touch. Dark black-cherry/berry fruit, velvety tannic structure, and savoury flavours balance the fruit ripeness. It finishes with an almost perfect freshening acidity and emerging notes of wild herb and crushed rock—an astounding result in this harsh vintage.

Drink 2026 - 2042

The 2022 L’Ermita is Palacios’s crown jewel, this vintage comprising 92% Garnacha, 7% Cariñena and 1% white varieties. It is clearly a step up from the Les Aubaguetes with intense, multi-faceted black fruit, freshly rolled tobacco, black pepper and wild mint hints. It uncoils seductively with time in the glass while retaining wonderful delineation and focus. The palate is utterly divine with saturated yet filigree tannins, perfect balance and a gentle, almost subtle crescendo with a peacock’s tail of mineral-driven black fruit on the finish. Fabulous and as sophisticated as they come. Utterly divine.

Drink 2030 - 2060

Some 5,000 bottles filled in March 2024.

The 2022 L'Ermita wasn't bottled when I tasted it in January 2024. They selected the grapes from 2.28 hectares out of the total 4.7 hectares planted in 1909, 1939 and 1996 to produce this red classified as Gran Vinya Classificada, the top quality hierarchy in the Priorat appellation.

It was produced with a blend of 92% Garnacha, 7% Cariñena and 1% of the local whites, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Pedro Ximénez fermented with part of full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats with a maceration of 23 days followed by an élevage in French oak oval foudres that is expected to last 14 months.

The parameters are 14.5% alcohol, pH of 3.49 and 4.87 grams of acidity. This is always the more complete wine here; it feels reticent, closed and shy, insinuating, nuanced and subtle. It has a seamless, solid palate with fine tannins and a balanced mouthfeel.

Drink 2025 - 2038

Gran Vinya Classificada. 4,930 bottles produced.

L’Ermita is the second of Alvaro Palacios’ top wines to gain the Gran Vinya Classificada category. The vineyard now measures 4.7ha; it increased when Palacios and René Barbier swapped land. Work has been done to graft red varieties onto white vines. The result of the labours – including the permissions required from the Archbishop of Zaragoza for this holy hermitage – is a delight. Gloriously aromatic nose, introducing a wonderfully complex palate of cherries integrated with savoury notes, a shaft of minerality, wild herbs, and dark fruit conserve—well-deserving of its reputation as one of Spain’s great wines.

Drink 2026 - 2040