2021 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Tortochot, Burgundy

Moderate wood is present on the spicy and sauvage-suffused aromas of red currant, dark cherry and a hint of just turned earth. The wood can also be found on the palate of larger-scaled flavors that possess evident power and a taut muscularity on the firm, serious and austere finale where the wood reappears. This is certainly promising but will need at least a few years to better integrate the oak treatment as it sticks out somewhat today. Drink 2033. There is plenty of polished purple fruit on the initial attack, but the 100% whole-cluster ferment also gives a slight menthol tone, some savoury notes and a smoky, almost exotic edge. With time one sees the firm strength of the tannic structure that leads the wine to a lingering finish. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a bit of turbidity to 'keep the floral aromatics' according to Girardin, this will doubtless evolve interestingly in the years to come. This is on the edge of being classed as a natural wine but is still very elegant and sophisticated. Drink 2027-2045.