2021 Barolo, Bussia, Giacomo Fenocchio, Piedmont, Italy

The Giacomo Fenocchio 2021 Bussia mesmerizes with its aromas of violet, botanical herb, forest berry, menthol and cake spice. Full-bodied and firmly structured, the utterly delicious palate boasts a great depth of flavors including juicy red cherry, raspberry preserve, cinnamon stick, crushed mint and star anise before a graphite finish, all set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. Showing serious aging potential, it has bright acidity that also keeps it well balanced.

Monforte d’Alba. Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Enticing nose of spicy stalks, minerally saline notes and subdued fruit that slowly opens up with aeration. Suave cherry fruit with just the right dose of supple acidity, finely ground tannins and a whiff of exotic spice. Stunning balance. Closes up on the finish so more to come.

Located in the heart of Bussia, the Giacomo Fenocchio estate counts 5ha in the Sottana subzone. As with all the MGA bottlings, fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, maceration is upwards of 40 days, and ageing is in large Slavonian oak casks. The 2021 has a flamboyant side, leading with roasted coffee, iron, grilled bay leaf and crushed allspice aromas. As animated as the nose is, the palate needs a bit more time to come together, however it is well packed with dense dark cherry and perfumed fennel. The tannins are chalky yet sweet, with a taut snap. I love the saline twist on the finish.

Moving to the 2021 Barolo Bussia, it pours a bright transparent red color and offers a pure aromatic profile with notes of cherry candies, preserved orange, amaro-like sweet herbs, and dried earth. The palate is also vibrant and transparent, with a bit more savory iron-richness lurking gently underneath on the finish, framing the otherwise more transparent ripe berried fruit that coaxes through the palate. It has ripe tannins and a bit more richness of texture on the finish that I anticipate will improve over the coming 10-15 years.