2021 Barolo, Ravera, G.D. Vajra, Piedmont, Italy

From one of the most sought-after crus sites today, the G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Ravera opens to a vibrant ruby color. The wine takes its time opening, especially when tasted young, but that delay bodes well for its future bottle evolution. This wine is built like a wall, with each brick representing its own distinct character. There is dark fruit, pressed flower, herb, ebony and a very elegant mineral side. The bouquet is direct and vertical, with lifted intensity over a medium-plus palate. The tannins are elegantly managed, and this wine has the latitude for long cellar aging.

Wild berry, dog rose, violet, hay, menthol and spice aromas waft out of the glass on the incredibly fragrant and gorgeous 2021 Ravera from G.D. Vajra. Full-bodied and succulent, the delicious palate delivers raspberry compote, strawberry, baking spice and star anise alongside tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it youthfully tense and balanced.

This wine shows aromas of black cherries, fresh violets, thyme and touches of mint and smoke. Relaxing attack on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins and crisp acidity. Medium- to full-bodied, it needs time to reach its full potential. Try from 2027.

The 2021 Barolo Ravera comes from an amphitheater-shaped vineyard that captures the sunlight, which the producers believe is what gives this cuvée its depth and richness. In the glass, the nose of the 2021 Barolo Ravera is remarkably concentrated, revealing notes of black raspberry and grenadine, fresh leather, and pressed flowers, with a long and sustained feel. The generous sweetness of fruit and its more noble, ripe tannins come through on the mid-palate, but it has a lot of finesse on the finish. The sapidity and purity of the fruit meets the tannins and acidity where they are fabulously. The estate keeps improving these wines, and this one is exceptional. Harvested over three days, it saw 55 days of submerged cap maceration, followed by 26 months of cask aging. In 2021, they lost about 15% of this vineyard production due to spring frost.

Harvested around the same time as Bricco delle Viole, the Ravera saw an even longer maceration – 55 days – and slightly more time in wood. All GD Vajra’s Barolo mature in large Slavonian oak casks, allowing site to shine. Reserved to begin with, this reveals tobacco, bay leaf and wet stone. Full and dense with some of the richness that the Bricco delle Viole expresses but ultimately steelier in temperament. Tangy blackcurrant is underscored by a distinct mineral edge. Firm, chiselled tannins build in strength without becoming brawny. Definitely cellarworthy.

Novello. Mid to deep, lustrous ruby. Lifted, concentrated cherry with a dark-spice undertow. Great depth of fruit and bags of gravelly tannins striking a balance. Great intensity of concentrated fruit, but the most backward of the 2021 Vajra Barolos.