2021 Pommard, Les Rugiens-Bas, 1er Cru, Pierre Girardin, Burgundy

There is plenty of polished purple fruit on the initial attack, but the 100% whole-cluster ferment also gives a slight menthol tone, some savoury notes and a smoky, almost exotic edge. With time one sees the firm strength of the tannic structure that leads the wine to a lingering finish. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a bit of turbidity to 'keep the floral aromatics' according to Girardin, this will doubtless evolve interestingly in the years to come. This is on the edge of being classed as a natural wine but is still very elegant and sophisticated. Drink 2027-2045.