2021 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Dugat-Py, Burgundy

A blend of one-third Mazoyères and two-thirds Charmes proper - the fruit comes from a mix of mostly 20-year-old vines and a small percentage of extremely old vines.

Here, the more reticent nose isn't as elegant, though it is more complex with its layered blend of red and dark pinot fruit, anise and discreet earth and floral wisps where the herbal tea character is a bit more prominent. The supple and highly seductive medium-weight flavours possess excellent depth and persistence on the mildly austere and lightly stony finale. This is already appealing, and several years of cellaring should only enhance its attractiveness. Excellent.

Drink from 2033 onward

The '21 Charmes from Dugat-Py is a massive wine. There is a bit of reduction on the initial attack, but behind that is bright raspberry and pomegranate fruit with floral notes, and hints of menthol and earth. The texture is lively and fresh, with plenty of acidity, but all the structural elements balance with firm tannins and plenty of extract. This is a blend of the quarter-hectare the domaine owns in Charmes proper with some of their Mazoyères as well. Luckily for everyone, production was 'only' off by 25% this year so some wine will be available.

Drink 2027 - 2055

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly in bottle, and readers will have a hard time choosing between this and the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. Bursting from the glass with aromas of peonies, wild berries, cherries, orange zest and spices, it's full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, enveloping core, concluding with a long, spicy finish.

Drink 2027 - 2045