2021 Ornellaia Bianco, Tuscany, Italy

The 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is alluring. I sense a bit more textural richness vis-à-vis prior editions, a positive in my book. White pear, jasmine, sage, mint, white pepper, peach and apricot fill out the layers. Light tropical accents appear with some aeration, adding a tropical flair that is quite attractive. This is impeccably done.

Drink 2024 - 2029

Previously a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, the Ornellaia 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is now all Sauvignon Blanc. The estate recently planted Semillon, so we may one day see that grape in the blend especially because it is known to thrive in hot vintages). This wine plays its best cards in terms of texture. It sports broad shoulders and enough texture to support those many creamy citrus and delicately tropical flavours. A dusting of crushed stone adds elegance. The wine should show its best results in five to 10 years from now.

Drink 2024 - 2038

For the first time, Ornellaia Bianco becomes a Bolgheri DOC wine in the 2021 vintage. It’s again 100% Sauvignon Blanc, vinfied in a mixture of 300L and 500L amphorae, barriques and tonneaux, with only 25% new wood.

Perfumed, exotic, stony and honeyed, it’s nonetheless a vertical and focused wine, its structure constraining rich aromas and flavours of mango, peach, white flowers, orange peel, papaya and passion fruit. It feels like it’s being held back, with a touch of austerity and that stony, mineral authority that makes it necessary to drink with food. ‘It has much more vibrancy than in the past...a better-defined character than when the project began,’ notes Marco Balsimelli.

Drink 2025 - 2036

Olga Fusari winemaker.

Manages to convey the vivid character of Sauvignon Blanc while keeping a hand on a steadier, more reserved style. Opens with fragrant sage, tomato leaf and citrus, well structured and understated, salted cracker edges to the rich nectarine fruits and savoury peach pit.

Drink 2024 - 2040

This is a dense and focused white but agile and lightly chewy. Very pretty aromas. Full-bodied with tension and framing that gives this wine real precision and intensity. Tight at the end. April 2024 release. Already beautiful but will age wonderfully. Best white ever from here?