2021 Balocchi No.7, Cabernet Franc, Poderi dell'Olmo, Bibi Graetz, Tuscany, Italy

Bibi Graetz is visibly proud of his latest creation, and indeed, it represents something new even for this out-of-the-box-thinking vintner. The 2021 Cabernet Franc Podere dell’Olmo Balocchi di Colore N. 7 is a big surprise for a winemaker so married to indigenous Tuscan grapes. The wine shows a pretty nose with sweet fruits that are red and purple in character rather than black. It delivers excellent freshness, good length and a mouthfeel that is firm but not heavy. The tannins are integrated and elegant.

Bibi Graetz is reducing his production numbers, going from 500,000 bottles produced in 2013 to less than half that number in recent years. His top-shelf Colore has been reduced from 50,000 bottles in 2020 to only 15,000, with fruit sourced from two vineyard sites. He is committed to adopting “a more selective approach.” As someone who has studied his portfolio for many years, I still have concerns over the ever-changing wines and introducing new products and removing others), which could cause confusion among consumers. As Bibi’s new vineyard sites in Fiesole become mature, the portfolio will also consolidate.

Drink 2024 - 2035

This is a sensational Cabernet Franc with blackberries, violets, and hints of stems, dark earth, and dark chocolate. It is medium-bodied with beautifully integrated tannins and a long, long finish. It takes off. This will give the best of Loire cabernet franc a run for its money. 1,200 bottles made. Just drink it.

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