2021 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Tremblots, Haute Densité, Domaine Hubert Lamy, Burgundy

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité was hit by the frost more than the regular cuvée. However, there remains wonderful intensity and definition on the nose, struck flint infusing the orchard fruit. The palate is well-defined, with Clementine, lemon peel, Anjou pear and peppery notes. It is quite complex and harmonious, fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Superb. Alas, just 300 bottles this vintage.

Drink 2025 - 2045

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, apple blossom, white flowers, iodine, and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, deep, and multidimensional, it's satiny and suave. It has a layered core of cool, vibrant fruit girdled by racy acids and chalky extract, concluding with a saline finish. This captures a sense of plenitude that's rare in this vintage.

Drink 2025 - 2045

From a vine density equivalent of 22,000 vines/ha; only 320 bottles made in 2021.

A lightly smoky nose displays distinctly cool notes of pear and apple compote, carnation, citrus confit and a hint of crushed fennel. There is excellent intensity to the beautifully well-detailed medium-weight flavours that are also markedly compact on the agreeably dry and refreshing finish that just goes on and on. It is highly unusual for a village-level wine, no matter the commune, to achieve this strikingly good level of quality and kudos to Lamy for having done so. In a word, brilliant.

Drink from 2033 onward