2021 Solaia, Antinori, Tuscany, Italy

Antinori's 2021 Solaia is another wine that captures all of the potential I sensed when I tasted it some months ago. More than anything else, the 2021 is a fine example of the style Antinori favors these days, an approach that favors finesse more than opulence. Dark plum, mocha, licorice, chocolate, spice, lavender and menthol build effortlessly in the glass. Oak and tannin are impeccably balanced. The 2021 spent 18 months in wood, three months in once-used barrels during the malolactic fermentation and then 15 months in 100% new barrels for the rest of its aging.

Antinori presented some of the most memorable wines I have ever tasted here. The 2021s capture all the pedigree of this great Chianti Classico vintage in their combination of vibrancy, aromatic intensity and fruit. CEO Renzo Cotarella and his two longtime technical directors, Dora Pacciani and Sara Pontremolesi, have moved the wines towards a style that emphasizes more freshness than in the past while dialing down the more opulent side that was once in favor.

It’s a significant evolution, one that really makes itself felt in 2021, a vintage that is so well suited to wines of energy. Readers will note the addition of three new single-vineyard Gran Seleziones in the range, wines I have watched grow over the years from young barrel samples into fully finished wines.

Drink 2027 - 2051

‘For me [2021 is] one of the best vintages ever,’ says Renzo Cotarella, Antinori's CEO and head winemaker, of the widely lauded vintage in Tuscany, explaining to me that it shares characteristics with 1997 and 2007, with a cool, frosty start slowing down vegetative growth and helping to extend the growing season, aided by milder temperatures later in the summer which enabled the grapes to build concentration while preserving freshness. Recent vintages of Solaia have benefitted from an increased use of Cabernet Franc, which stands at 9% in 2021.

Due to be launched this autumn, Solaia 2021 is still a baby but its potential is immediately apparent. Inky and concentrated, with a dark chocolate barrique signature on the nose, it combines salinity with bountiful and sapid fruits, offering ripe black and red cherries, and dark hedgerow berries alongside herbal freshness, and finely textured tannins. Ferrous, meaty and earthy undertones emerge after some time in the glass, providing a counterpoint to the inherent sweetness of the fruit. Muscular yet wonderfully poised, this will only reveal all its complexities after significant ageing.

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All said and done, the Marchesi Antinori 2021 Solaia is a monument to perfect winemaking. This coiffed supermodel does not show a single hair follicle out of place. However, it doesn't quite have the same sex appeal of the Tignanello. In my conversations with Estate Manager Renzo Cotarella during this tasting, it was expressed this way: "Tignanello is unexpected. Solaia is expected." Whereas Tignanello is a wine of vertical lift and energy, Solaia is a wine of lasting power.

The wine offers generous depth and layering with soft tannins and some of the spicy pink peppercorn you get from the 9% Cabernet Franc added to 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Sangiovese). The finish is extremely velvety and soft, but I notice that the flavors seem to become sweeter and riper the longer this wine stays in the glass. This newest release will hit the market in September.

Marchesi Antinori General Manager Renzo Cotarella tells me that 2021 is the best vintage he has ever overseen. Ever. He prefers it to recent classics like 2016 and 2010. There was frost in the spring, and the growing cycle was very long. This is something that most grapes, and especially Sangiovese, need in order to exhibit aromatic depth and flavor complexity. "This is an exceptional year," he says, citing the inner energy certainly exhibited by the wines from 2021.

I agree, mostly, but not unequivocally. I love the precision and tension inherent to these wines, but I didn't encounter that same breathless vertical lift and linearity that I remember so well in 2016, for example. That was a vintage that managed to effortlessly balance both power and elegance, which is by no means an easy feat. To me, 2021 has the elegance but not the same piercing power that you only get in cooler vintages when sugar and phenolic ripening line up seamlessly. So, while I love these wines, especially the Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori and the outstanding Tignanello, my money is still on 2016 as the better vintage, speaking generally. But zoom in on one wine and my money is on the 2021 Tignanello over everything else.

Drink 2025 - 2050