2021 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

Sweet and substantial. Lots here. With fine tannins underneath and very Volnay. But no better than Dominique Lafon’s crunchy example of village Volnay!

Drink 2026 - 2040

One third whole cluster, after heavy frost damage. Darkish colour for the vintage, rather a lactic nose. Plenty of weight, a soft dark fruit but rather smudged. Drier finish. Not in place today but the second winter may sort it out.

The 2021 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet with brambly, red berry fruit, white pepper and sous-bois scents, nicely focused with a subtle garrigues note. The palate is medium-bodied with fine depth, crisp and lively with a healthy dash of white pepper. Well-focused and harmonious, this is a fine Volnay Champans.

Drink 2024 - 2040

From a .97 ha holding, 25% are whole clusters, and yields will be only 9 hl/ha in 2021.

A cool, airy, overtly floral-suffused nose comprises notes of spicy red berries and soft earth. The super-sleek, if not especially dense, middleweight flavours exude an almost pungent minerality on the lacy and graceful finish. This is an atypical de Montille Champans, as it's much finer than usual. When I asked why, the response was that the bottom portion of the vineyard was so badly frosted that only the top portion, which gives finer wines, was used.

Drink from 2029 onward