2021 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux

89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample.

Blackcurrant and cranberry notes indicate the dominance of Cabernet in the blend. Meaty but fresh on the palate, the tannins silky and dense. Plenty of substance here, the fruit generous, the tannins firm, providing length on the finish. Rich, within the context of the vintage, but fresh at the same time. Looks to have staying power.

Drink 2030 - 2050

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a "serious" Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it has indeed gained a little weight, especially toward the back. Possessing very pure fruit and harmonious with a linear yet elegant finish, this is a classically styled Mouton-Rothschild that will age with grace.

Drink 2027 - 2050

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild unwinds in the glass with rich aromas of dark berries and minty cassis mingled with espresso roast, dark chocolate, smoked meats, and toasty new oak. It has taken on weight with élevage in barrel, exhibiting a full-bodied, rich, and layered palate that's impressively muscular and multidimensional. It has a deep core of fruit and plenty of sweet, powdery structuring tannin, concluding with a long, discreetly carnal finish.

Drink 2031 - 2061

Hold +4 years

Inky depths to the colour, with sweetened black cherry, damson and cassis fruit, clear crushed rose petals, and grilled rosemary, espresso, cocoa and sage. It supplies generosity that is often lacking in the vintage, but this stays bang on Mouton's character and signature, and even though it is in a more classic vintage style, it is full of beauty. 100% new oak, 41hl/h yield. Harvest from September 25 until October 6. The first vintage was Jean-Emmauel Danjoy from beginning to end, after Philippe Dhalluin's retirement.

Drink 2028 - 2041

For tech geeks out there, this hit 13.1% alcohol, has an IPT of 59, and a pH of 3.73.

As to the Grand Vin 2021 Château Mouton Rothschild, this beauty is in the running for one of the wines of the vintage, and it brings more depth, richness, and texture than just about anything else in the Médoc. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc that was brought up in new barrels, it sports a dense purple/plum hue as well as powerful aromatics of spicy black fruits, leafy tobacco, graphite, and freshly sharpened pencils.

Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has a building, layered mouthfeel, impressive concentration and intensity in its aromas and flavours, velvety tannins, and gorgeous finish. You'd be hard-pressed to know this came from a challenging vintage. It will take at least 5-7 years to hit the early stages of its prime drinking window and will evolve gracefully over the following 20-25 years. Bravo.

Drink 2029 - 2055

Concentrated and characterful, layered and super-finely presented. Round and full, juicy and textured, more powdery than tense and grippy with almost blackcurrant skin texture, while juicy red and black cherry juice goes through the centre, added to by dried mint, wet stones, clove and liquorice. Serious, with power but poise, all the elements on show – perhaps not quite settled, but individually showing the complexity of this great wine in the making.

Drink 2027 - 2050

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time in the glass. The Grand Vin is pretty imposing at this stage. I would not be in a rush.

Drink 2031 - 2051

A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. 13.1% alcohol.

This shows blackcurrants, blackberries, violets, lavender, pencil shavings and hints of metal shavings. Medium- to full-bodied with a firm and juicy character of extremely polished and integrated tannins that caress your palate. Compact and poised with tension and focus.

Drink after 2029