2021 Mountain Blanco, Telmo Rodríguez, Sierras de Málaga, Spain

Full bottle 1,196 g. In 1995, Telmo Rodríguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkia established Molino Real in Málaga with a view to reviving the region’s ‘Mountain Wine’. Located in Axarquía in the east of Málaga, the vineyards are grown at some of the highest elevations in this area, between 550 and 1,000 m, in the villages of Cómpeta and Archez. This region is the driest of the five subzones of Málaga, and is also well-known for raisin production from the DO Pasas de Málaga. Shallow, stony and fine-textured soil suits the bush-vine Muscat of Alexandria. The grapes were hand harvested and then pressed using a traditional, artisanal method: the grapes were placed between two mats made from esparto a straw-like material) and then crushed using an olive-oil press. The wine was then aged in bottle for 9–12 months before being released. Mountain Wine was traditionally a sweet style but this is a dry version. MR is the sweet version.)

Intense grapey aroma, but also wild herbs and vibrant green fruits. On the day after opening there's a slight fumey/herbal aroma, not unlike spontaneously fermented Riesling. Bone dry but gives a slight impression of sweetness because of the grapey character. Full and generous in the mouth, almost viscous, but still surprisingly fresh. Intense, long and aromatic on the palate. This may not appeal to everyone but it's a classic wine of the region, even if the dry style is less usual. Fascinating and complex. I am not sure how this will age so I have been rather cautious in my suggested drinking window.

Drink 2024 - 2027

12,011 bottles were filled in July 2022.

The 2021 Mountain Blanco is balsamic, herbal and minty, quite expressive and not excessively varietal. Harvest was early—they started the 16th of August—and cropped from a very warm year that delivered low yields. The wine has 13.5% alcohol and a low pH that makes it quite balanced and fresh. It's still very young and a little reductive, but it was very recently bottled, and that's normal for a wine that matures exclusively in stainless steel. It has a round palate with marked flavours and a faint bitter twist in the finish. It's still closed and will be better with one more year in bottle.

Drink 2024 - 2027