2021 Volnay, Santenots-du-Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy
- Red
- Dry
- Full Bodied
- Pinot Noir
- Matthew Hayes
- 16.5+/20
- Allen Meadows
- 90-92/100
- Jasper Morris MW
- 90-93/100
- William Kelley
- 92-94/100
- Neal Martin
- 93-95/100
- Charles Curtis MW
- 94/100
Description
From a huge 3.78 ha holding of 40+ year old vines planted in shallow, high clay content soil sitting above a bed of solid limestone.
Here the nose is firmly reduced and revealing nothing. Otherwise there is good punch on the lighter weight flavors that possess lovely delineation while displaying focused power on the firm, serious and austere finale. This is an excellent example of 'power without weight' and a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping.
Drink from 2029 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (April 2023)
Critics reviews
Cask sample
Limpid, mid-cherry hue. Red cherries and cassis on the nose. Instantly more substantial. Quite solid and firm, in fact. Nevertheless, only medium body and intensity, without huge intensity and length. Solid without being substantial. Will drink relatively early.
Drink 2025 - 2035
From a huge 3.78 ha holding of 40+ year old vines planted in shallow, high clay content soil sitting above a bed of solid limestone.
Here the nose is firmly reduced and revealing nothing. Otherwise there is good punch on the lighter weight flavors that possess lovely delineation while displaying focused power on the firm, serious and austere finale. This is an excellent example of 'power without weight' and a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping.
Drink from 2029 onward
Pretty mid crimson purple. Sterner and denser than the others. They picked the young vines at the start of the harvest and the old vines at the end. Deep cherry with a bit of raspberry. Not dancing or sumptuous at the moment, whereas the Santenots normally stand out further alongside Champans and Clos des Chênes. However, it is reserved rather than lacking anything.
Drink 2029 - 2036
Exhibiting aromas of raspberries, vine smoke, warm spices, wintergreen and orange zest, the 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with an enveloping core of cool, vibrant fruit and a rich, sensual profile. Transcending stereotypes of the vintage, it's a beautiful bottling in the making.
The 2021 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru comes from all the Domaine's vines, including the youngest ones. Wonderful aromatics on the nose: wild strawberry, cranberry, rose petals and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, lovely balance and purity and very harmonious with a slightly grainy texture. Slips down the throat with ease. Outstanding given the growing season.
Drink 2025 - 2048
The Santenots du Milieu from Lafon is a marvellous wine and among my favourites among the Volnay premier crus, with its perfumed red and black fruit and pleasant floral notes. The texture on the palate is dynamic, with fresh acidity that carries the wine to a pleasantly lingering finish. The tannins have enough extract and ripeness to avoid any astringent notes. This wine represents the best of the 3.8 hectares of Santenots du Milieu in the heart of the appellation—a magnificent parcel that consistently produces one of the best red wines south of Corton.
Drink 2027 - 2055