2021 Arcurìa, Etna Bianco, Graci, Sicily, Italy

The 2021 Etna Bianco Arcuria is coy, as coaxing slowly unlocks a delicate blend of wet stones, pear and a disturbing hint of Band-Aid. It’s silky and soothing with a saline tinge up front and ripe orchard fruits that swirl above a core of brisk acidity. The 2021 tapers off long, lightly structured and mineral in style, leaving subtle lime and ginger suggestions. This would be a lovely rendition of Arcuria Bianco if not for the bouquet, which I fear is suffering from Brettanomyces.

I found the Etna Rossos from Graci among the top wines I tasted for this year's report. Especially the 2018 Arcuria Sopra il Pozzo, which transcends the conditions of this challenging year. The 2020 Rosso Arcuria and Rosso Feudo di Mezzo were equally compelling. However, I can’t say the same for the 2021 and 2022. In both cases, the wines come across as understated to a fault or mineral to the point of being fruit-challenged. When possible, I checked in on a second bottle, each time with the same result. For example, the 2021 Arcuria shows a Band-Aid note on the nose that leads me to suspect Brettanomyces.

Drink 2023 - 2026

Graci's Arcuria Bianco 2011 was the first white wine in Italy to be labelled with an MGA Arcuria is the name of the contrada the vines are located in). Vinified partly in cement vats and partly in large barrels, it then matures for 12 months on the lees followed by 12 months in bottle. This 2021 features a gentle peach and saline nose with some white pepper and crunchy apple. Steely and textured, in the mouth it offers flavours of white peach, grapefruit, apple and a touch of spice. Bright, sapid and succulent, give this a bit more time to open up.

Drink 2023 - 2037

This has delicious salinity with notes of sea urchins, seashells, lemons, green pineapple and fun flint. Driven and focused, with a medium body and tangy acidity. Flinty at the end. 

Drink or hold

The 2021 Etna Bianco Arcurìa reveals a volcanic bouquet with sulfur stone, lots of citrus and honeydew melon. The wine needs to flesh out further, and thanks to that hint of reductiveness, we can expect a long drinking window. The wine sees both stainless steel and large oak aging, and only 4,000 bottles were made.

Alberto Aiello Graci is one of the protagonists of the Etna wine movement. He has added a beautiful new white wine to his portfolio from the Contrada Mugnanazzi, which sits at 700 meters above sea level.

Drink 2023 - 2032