2020 Restless River, Ava Marie Chardonnay, Hemel en Aarde, South Africa
- White
- Dry
- Medium Bodied
- Chardonnay
- Jancis Robinson MW
- 17/20
- Anthony Mueller
- 92/100
- Neal Martin
- 92/100
- Chris Wilson
- 93/100
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Critics reviews
Moving to biodynamic, they put a real emphasis on soil health. Single 2-ha vineyard, planted in 1999 at 260 m on granite and deep underlying clay, facing south-west. Clones 5 and 55. Spontaneous fermentation, all in 500-litre barrels. Owner-winemaker Craig Wessels aims for Old World burgundian style, apparently. Oxidatively made and lots of gas used when moving from barrel to barrel. Then aged in 10% new oak, 10% amphora, 10% tank and 70% old oak.
Very distinctive nose. Great grip on the palate but quite muted – non showy but it should last very well Dirk Niepoort apparently enjoyed the 2013 recently on a visit!). Very lively – long and throbbing.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Popping with aromas of popcorn kernel, fresh lemon zest and just-ripe yellow apples, the 2020 Ave Marie Chardonnay is expressive and seductive in the glass. Medium-bodied, the palate is precise with energetic acidity, offering a succulent profile and balanced structure before ending with a long, spicy, oaky finish and lingering flavors of spiced white tea. Bravo, I want more!
Drink 2023 - 2035
The 2020 Chardonnay Ava Marie is whole bunch pressed, the juice oxidized and settled, followed by a spontaneous barrel ferment with 10 to 12 months sur lie. Lucid green/gold in hue in the glass. This has an attractive bouquet with a very subtle reduction, the 10% new oak discrete in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp line of acidity, quite taut and linear, hints of orange rind and plenty of salinity on the finish. Excellent.
Drink 2023 - 2032
Bold nose of ripe pear fruit and white flowers. Rich, with perky acidity and a distinct marzipan note, this is a serious wine. Sherbet lemon, peach tea and a smidge of vanilla complete the picture on the palate. A lovely lime acidity closes this out in style. Restless River likes to hold back its wines in bottle pre-release to round them off, including the whites, so this Chardonnay from 2020 is only seeing the light of day in November 2022.
Drink 2022 - 2028