2020 Volnay-Santenots, 1er Cru, Jean Javillier & Fils, Burgundy

Javillier's tiny cuvée of 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots is the richer, most dramatic wine in the range, bursting with aromas of raspberries, sweet spices, orange rind and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, layered and powerful, it's lively and penetrating.

Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain sight equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old-fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and have been certified organic since 1971.