2020 Anjou, Rouères, Domaine Belargus, Loire

The 2020 Rouères is a sweet wine but not unctuous; it has a sense of freshness and a bitter twist, providing a clean, long finish despite its 150-odd g/L of residual sugar. It is almost tart and offers an herbal, aperitif-like character, combining celery, marmalade, toffee and smoke notes. It's already approachable, but its structural tension and sweetness point to longevity if you wait. 10% alcohol).

Quite frankly, it's a triumph this was even made after rains wiped Les Quarts parcel out. It might not be typical Quarts de Chaume - neither as rich nor luscious - hence why they've decided to label it as a Coteaux du Layon even though they could legally have still called it Quarts de Chaume, displaying the integrity of this producer.

Drink 2023 - 2043

Delicate notes of honey and a touch of butter, along with a hint of wood within a vibrant texture. The long, elegant finish is currently a little closed, so needs more time or should be decanted before drinking. The southeast-facing Rouères parcel is 2.98ha and was planted between 1979 and 1985 in loamy clays over puddingstone. The parcel was picked on 14 September with a yield of 25 hl/ha. Fermented and aged in demi-muids and barriques averaging five years old for 14 months and bottled in November 2021.

Drink 2025 - 2060