2020 Riesling, C.O. Liquid Earth, Battenfeld Spanier, Rheinhessen, Germany

The 2020 Riesling CO Steinlinden Liquid Earth speaks of soil and deep limestone. Fruit takes second place on the nose of cool, earthy stone, with just a fringe of lemon. Yes, this is now five years old, but its evolution seems suspended in that cooling, profound freshness. The texture is chalky and has barely begun to evolve. The only thing that is obvious here is the limestone character and depth. The 2020 is anchored in stone and eternal lift with a savor that echoes long, making you want to take another sip. (Bone-dry)

The fruit for Liquid Earth is from an unclassified parcel that was named C O Steinlinden with the 2019 vintage. This lieu-dit is found in the Zellertal Valley, between the grand cru sites of Frauenberg and Schwarzer Herrgott. It’s named after an olive tree species that takes root only in particularly chalky, rocky and nutrient-rich soils. Fermentation and ageing in traditional 1,200-litre Stückfass. The wine is stored on the lees until bottling the following autumn. Aged for a further four years in the estate’s underground, naturally cool 1,800-m2 maturation cellar before release on the Place de Bordeaux. TA 7 g/l, RS 3 g/l.

There are wines that speak more of philosophy than pleasure, and seeing as this was originally conceived as a wedding wine, it’s no surprise this is one of them. A powerful, Alsace-like density and insistent stoniness is infused with elegant maturity and an abstract character of salted lemons, quince and apple. The bold palate is built on a cubist-like approach, with multifaceted textures and sensory viewpoints, highlighting structure over flavour. Its raw energy transcends variety and style to reach dizzying complexity.