2020 La Mondotte, St Emilion, Bordeaux

Tasted blind.

Deepest crimson. Dark, rich, but fresh black fruit. Lots of freshness here, and the tannins are already very fine. Lovely freshness and depth. Long and harmonious. 

Drink 2028 - 2040

A yield of 36hl/ha. 

Ruby and violet-laced colour, glass-staining berry fruit, clear limestone influence, sappy and a little austere, slate and juice. Muscular in its colour and aromatics on the attack, then it contracts halfway through the palate and the grippy tannins come into play. Good stuff.

Drink 2028 - 2040

I typically have a weakness for Canon-la-Gaffelière, with its high percentage of Cabernet Franc, in the Von Neipperg portfolio. But this year, it's the 2020 La Mondotte that takes centre stage, offering up aromas of dark berries, plums, liquorice, incense and vine smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and vibrant palate of striking harmony and concentration. It's the most seamless, complete wine I've ever tasted from this brilliant clay-limestone terroir.

Drink 2025 - 2050

The 2020 La Mondotte has altered since tasting it from barrel, closing in a little, becoming less sensual and more "serious". Blackberry intermingles with raspberry coulis, cedar and a very subtle star anis scent with superb delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins. Like the aromatics, it has become more intellectual during its élevage, more saline, slightly granular in texture with a harmonious yet understated finish that lingers long in the mouth. Sophisticated.

Drink 2027 - 2050

The 2020 La Mondotte is fabulous. Rich, heady and exotic, the 2020 offers up copious blackberry, blueberry, mocha, liquorice, lavender and spice, with more savoury and mineral notes that appear over time. Like all of Stephan von Neipperg's 2020s, La Mondotte marries fruit intensity and structure in brilliant style. As always, La Mondotte is a pretty full throttle Saint-Émilion, but the excesses of the past have been tamed.

Drink 2030 - 2045

Just about pure perfection, the 2020 La Mondotte comes from a tiny parcel of limestone soils on the upper plateau, not far from Troplong Mondot. Mostly Merlot with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, its deep purple hue is followed by a brilliant bouquet of crème de cassis, crushed stone, graphite, mulled black cherries, and hints of truffle. Full-bodied, incredibly elegant yet also concentrated and flawlessly balanced, it's as good as anything in the vintage. Give bottles 4-6 years in the cellar, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 2-3 decades.

Drink 2027 - 2052

Blackberries, blueberries and flowers such as lavender and dark roses on the nose. Dried flowers as well. Feels medium-bodied with seamless tannins that spread across the palate. Savory and agile with a weightless feel. Hints of white pepper and salt. Makes you want to taste it.

Better after 2026