2020 Griotte-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Claude Dugat, Burgundy

From a .16 ha parcel of 45 year old vines.

An even more subtle application of wood easily allows the cool, pure and wonderfully elegant aromas of the essence of red berries, spice, violet, tea and soft earth to be appreciated. There is again plenty of punch to the gorgeously textured medium-bodied flavours that are sleek and tautly muscular while delivering superb length on the moderately austere, balanced and firmly structured finish. This is terrific.

Drink from 2035 onward

The 2020 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a complex nose, not a million miles away from the Chapelle, though maybe without quite the same thrilling degree of cohesion. Cold wet limestone mixes with Morello cherries and white-tipped strawberries. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, a lovely bitter edge counterbalancing the richness of this Griotte, probably the most structured of Dugat's cuvées on the finish. Superb.

Drink 2026 - 2055

One of the high points of the vintage is the 2020 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, a remarkably vibrant and elegant wine that offers up notes of red berries, rose petals, exotic spices, orange rind and loamy soil. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, it's multidimensional and complete, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, intensely perfumed finish. As usual, it's produced in minuscule quantities.