2020 Chablis, Les Clos, Grand Cru, Vincent Dauvissat, Burgundy

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru displays a little more depth and complexity than the Les Preuses. Touches of yellow plum, orange blossom, flint and light white tea scents percolate through with aeration. The palate is very intense on the entry and a bit richer than the Les Preuses. The harmonious, intense, well-defined finish lingers long in the mouth, leaving a spicy, peppery residue on the aftertaste. Excellent.

Drink 2030 - 2055

Clear, pale lemon. Vincent Dauvissat’s 2020 Les Clos has splendid intensity without any feeling of heat or warmth. It may be more complete and classical than les Preuses, but equally, the personality is less individual. The length is extraordinary.

Drink 2028 - 2040

From 3 different parcels of 50 year old vines that total 1.0 ha.

While not quite as elegant, the restrained nose is even more floral and a bit spicier with its array of anise, smoke, tea, oyster shell and iodine-scented aromas. There is more size, weight and power if not the same refinement to the more evidently mineral-driven big-bodied flavours that coat the palate on the driving, balanced and youthfully austere finish. This terrific effort is also a legitimate candidate for wine of the vintage honours.

Drink from 2032 onward

I generally have a slight preference for Dauvissat's Les Preuses, a preference I suspect Vincent Dauvissat shares, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, at least at this early stage, gets my nod as the king of the cellar—and the wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, fresh bread, oyster shell, white flowers and wet stones, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with huge concentration, racy acids and a long, resonant finish.

Drink 2030 - 2060