2020 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Pierre Morey, Burgundy

Here too, there is a smoky wisp to the spicier and equally cool aromas of mostly white orchard fruit, petrol and a hint of wood toast. The larger-scaled flavours possess a wonderfully seductive mouthfeel thanks mainly to the deep reserve of sappy dry extract before culminating in a powerful, palate-staining and borderline tannic finale that just goes on and on. This is a seriously impressive Bâtard.

Drink from 2030 onward

Pale lemon yellow. There is quite a weight of fruit here on the nose, but it is tight and backward. This is a massive Bâtard-Montrachet, and it will be wonderful, but the detail is very much hidden. The power and the balance are both there, with a little bit of astringency, which is only a sign of extreme youth.